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Goldbrick House

69 Park Street, West End, Bristol, BS1 5PB
t: (0117) 945 1950
w: goldbrickhouse.co.uk

It all started badly. My car wouldn’t start, and then when it did, it stalled five times between my house on the south of the river and Park Street’s finest. My phone died. And to top it all, it was raining. I was in need of some serious cheering up by the time I finally made it to Goldbrick House.

The restaurant’s new chef, Matt Peryer, has only been in attendance for a few months, and already his presence is being felt. “Overall, I’m simplifying the menus here and bringing back some big traditional dishes, using classic combinations and allowing the ingredients to speak for themselves,” he told us mid-service, when he popped his curly head out of the kitchen to say hello. Matt might only be 28, but he’s got a wealth of experience behind him – including a stint at Le Caprice – and he’s brought it all with him. You can expect fish fresh from Brixham, local organic vegetables and, come 2010, mains costing under £10 – all because of his strongly forged relationships with suppliers.

We started with clam chowder in a bowl made from sourdough bread and a salad of smoked duck with pine nuts, orange and watercress. The chowder was thick and creamy and beautifully presented – you could dip the lid of the sourdough roll into the soup – and the duck was delicately sliced and cooked with star anise. A squeeze of orange juice on the peppery watercress brought all the flavours together.

The mains were winter classics – a fillet of salmon with a lemon and dill risotto, and lamb hot pot with pot roasted root vegetables and pickled red cabbage. The salmon was fresh with a crispy skin – that’s a must in my book – and the risotto set it off perfectly. I hadn’t considered making a risotto as a side dish – it’s usually something I serve as a main – and it gave me a few ideas. The hot pot, tested by my northern companion, lived up to all its expectations – lamb that falls apart in the mouth, hearty vegetables and gravy and a rather fab red cabbage and rosti concoction on the side. Betty couldn’t have done it better.

We ended on a high: a dark chocolate truffle cake with white chocolate and bitter orange sauces to share. Well presented, generous and rich, it filled my mouth with flavour and a luxurious lingering aftertaste. It was more than a good meal. It was a great meal, the kind of meal that reminds you why you go out for dinner. I don’t mind now if it rains all winter, my car breaks down and I have to buy a new phone because I know that there’s somewhere in Bristol that can make it all OK.

About Matt

Matt has written 163 posts on this blog.

Hi, I'm Matt, Editor in Chef, here at FFFY. I hope you enjoy our freshly squeezed recipes, news and views!


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